American pie

With its artsy, hipster local scene, Davis Square is the perfect location for Flatbread Company‘s newest restaurant.  The Amesbury-based natural wood-fired pizza chain took over part of Sacco’s Bowl Haven in July.  The combination of the trendy eatery and the classic bowling alley, which retains ten of its original lanes, is another example of the blend of old and new that characterizes Davis.

Unlike some other pizza places, Flatbread is committed to ethical practices, meaning local organic produce, free-range and nitrate-free meats, homemade ingredients, and community involvement.  The design of the restaurant is open and earthy, with pretty multicolored glass lamps, a large mural depicting the Davis Square Farmers’ Market and other local landmarks, and the distinct smell of fresh goat cheese in the air.

The pizzas come in two sizes.  The menu claims that the bigger flatbread feeds two people, but it’s actually the size of a large pizza and can feed three easily.  I tried the nitrate-free pepperoni flatbread ($17), which consists of homemade pepperoni with mushrooms, wood-fired cauldron tomato sauce, cheeses, and herbs on dough that is made fresh daily with 100% organically-grown wheat that is milled into white flour with the wheat germ restored.  The pepperoni, made in-house along with all of the other meats and ingredients, looks more like sausage rather than “that stuff you get in the supermarket,” according to our waitress.

The crust was a little too floppy–I had to hold it with two hands–but apparently, you can ask them to double-cook it to make it crisper.  Also, the flatbread got cold really quickly, for some reason.  This wasn’t the best pizza I’ve ever had, but I would be willing to come here whenever I want to soothe my conscience or have a good, old-fashioned dinner-and-bowling night.

Flatbread Company @ Sacco’s Bowl Haven, 45 Day Street, Somerville, 617-776-0552, http://www.flatbreadcompany.com/2007Home.htm